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海错图笔记.2 (2) 中信出版社
$41.93
《海错图》是明末清初的浙江人聂璜绘制的一部海洋生物图谱。聂璜把他在中国沿海亲眼所见、亲耳所闻的各种生物都画在了这部图谱中。时代所限,书中的记载亦真亦假,时有夸张,但妙趣横生。此书在雍正年间被太监苏培盛带入宫中,深受历代皇帝喜爱,现1-3册藏于北京故宫博物院,第4册藏于台北“故宫博物院”。 2014年,北京故宫出版了前三册,我买了一本。2015年,我开始考证书中的生物,并在2016年出版了初步的成果:《海错图笔记》第一册。这本书收录了我对《海错图》中34幅画作的考证。 在《海错图笔记》第一册的序里我说过,解读海错图是一项长期工程,这不,在一年之后,第二册写完了。 经过多次与出版社的讨论和打样,我们把第二册的内页换成了呈现效果和阅读感受更好的纸;封面从裸脊线装换成了圆脊精装,让整本书更显品质,满足了一些读者的收藏需求,加了书脊也方便大家在书架上查找取阅。 体量上,在第二册中,我考证了39幅《海错图》原图,集成24篇文章,页数比第一册多24页——这次的文章篇幅更大、内容更丰富。 在写第一册时,我还保留着杂志编辑的习惯。在我供职《博物》杂志中,一篇文章顶多6页,因为内容太丰富,每个栏目不会占太多篇幅。所以写第一册时,字数一过2000,我就自动开始慌,生怕字多了读者看着烦,于是文章篇幅普遍较小。但书出版后,看看读者反馈,发现大部分人反而对我字数较多的那几篇更感兴趣,而且普遍反映意犹未尽。于是,在第二册里,我放飞自我,写了不少3000~5000字的文,希望大家看得更过瘾。 这次我增加了许多自己的考证过程。一来我本人就是个考据癖,二来我在查找资料过程中发现,很多美食家、作家、科普作者甚至科学史工作者,在考据海洋生物时都出现了或多或少的纰漏,有的是对古籍理解有误,有的是缺乏生物分类学的知识。写第一册的时候我就发现了,没好意思说,到第二册我实在忍不住了,在某些文章里有节制地吐槽了一下,另外列出了我自己的考据过程,供读者参考,让大家知其然,还知其所以然。 在第二册中,我减少了照片的比例,增加了许多古代日本、欧洲的博物学手绘。有不少都是和《海错图》同时代的,可以对比一下古代的中国人和外国人是如何看待同一类生物的。另一方面,古代绘画也比照片更符合本书的风格。手绘的来源均为合法,没有版权争议。 除了古代手绘,现代的手绘也是必要的。我邀请了多位年轻的科学插画师为本书绘制了插图,帮助读者理解相关的生物学知识。 第一册出来后,很多人问,为什么里面有这么多海鲜的吃法?是否违背动物保护的宗旨?其实写文时我都考虑过。首先,《海错图》原书里,几乎每种生物都附上了其吃法,为了优选限度地向读者展现《海错图》的原貌,不可避免地要介绍吃法。其次,大家可能忽视了一个事实:我们所食用的陆地上的生物,如今大部分已经来自人工养殖。而海鲜呢,很大一部分依然来源于野捕。也就是说,你所吃到的海鲜,很多都是野生动物。这是海洋食材和陆地食材的优选区别,海洋的生产力之高,是陆地无法比拟的。只要合理利用,海鲜就能既满足人类需要,又不影响自然种群。我们不能把保护陆地生物的标准硬套在海洋生物上。对于数量骤减,需要保护的物种,我会明确地在文章中告知读者。而对于可以合理合法地食用的物种,何必回避其饮食文化?作为一名科普工作者,我对国人“见啥吃啥”的习惯深恶痛绝,也对特别动物保护者不敢苟同。我希望读者们拥有这样一种观点:人类应该合理利用海洋,而不是禁止利用海洋;人类应该合理吃海鲜,而不是禁止吃海鲜,更不是吃完海鲜之后禁止别人介绍怎么合理吃海鲜。 另一类必不可少的内容,就是我自己的亲身经历。今年由于我喜得爱女,导致出行机会不多。但还是尽量抽时间去北京海鲜市场、青岛、晋江、厦门、马里亚纳群岛等地搜集了资料。我越来越深切地感到,第一手资料对一个作者是多么重要。所以,大海依然是我以后经常要去的地方。 从2014年第一次翻开《海错图》至今,已是第4个年头。越研究,越发现这本书实在有趣。请大家先看这第二册《海错图笔记》吧,我去继续考证了。
——张辰亮 【序】一次更话痨的《海错图》考证历程
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