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寻访山西古庙(晋东南、晋南篇)
$45.76
山西省现在保存着全国约70%的明以前大木构建筑,各类形式的古建筑保有量更是高居全国之冠,晋南地区唐、五代、宋、金、元等早期古建筑不胜枚举,明清时期的古建筑群更是数量极为庞大,被誉为“古建筑爱好者的天堂”。本书按地域划分,以绘画和游记的形式将晋东南、晋南的中国传统建筑之美展现给读者,同时也记录了众多古民居的现状,希望唤起更多读者对中国传统建筑和文化的关注、热爱和保护。
连达
1978年生,定居大连的黑龙江人。新浪微博:走长城画古建的小虎。
古建筑爱好者,曾经徒步考察河北、北京、天津、山西及辽宁大部的明长城。其间一年四季在野外长期独自穿越、露营,收集散失的长城碑刻资料,用拍摄、绘画和拓片等方式记录长城现状。
近年常利用业余时间寻访山西各地古建筑,自学绘画进行记录,足迹遍布山西众多市县和乡村,留下了近千幅写生作品。
著有《山西古建写生》《触摸,寺庙:山西土地上那些散落的古建符号》,部分作品曾在书籍《在路上:山西》、大型画册《长城》、期刊《中华遗产》《中国国家地理》、报纸《太原晚报》《山西日报》《山西晚报》《三晋都市报》《长治日报》《太行日报》《太行晚报》《大同晚报》等处发表。
序1
“总有人问我为什么喜欢去看破庙画破庙,那些修缮得很漂亮的古建筑我却不急着去画一画。我之所以会把画破庙放在优先位置,是因为再不去画就有可能看不到了,一次错过很可能就是永远失去。它们等了我几百年,已经无法再等下去了,时不我待啊。”
——连达
给未曾谋面的人的书写序,这是次。但对作者我神交已久。很多年前,他的朋友,也是我的朋友常说起这位叫小虎的“驴友”,会画画,喜欢到有古迹的地方去。可无数次徒步活动我们都擦肩而过,未能谋面。后来看过他画的长城、古代建筑等,相当不错,知道他不是单纯的户外徒步爱好者。后来他转送我一本他的书《触摸,寺庙:山西土地上那些散落的古建符号》,没想到他画了那么多,还出了书,才知道他的名字叫连达。从那本书里,我感受到那每幅画和文字说明,似乎都带着他的体温、呼吸和心跳。出自钦佩,我欣然答应了为他的新著写序。这新书,也是他个人考察中用汗水、心血在荒郊野外铸成的。令我涌动出强烈的感慨。因此写下如下的感想,不敢称作序。
看这本书,使人犹如进入一个独特的古建艺术博物馆,一座座寺庙、碑亭、牌坊、戏楼、会馆、民居、古桥……汇成了跨越古今的沧桑画卷。如今山西偏僻的乡村,这些保留下来的古建,并不知名,是被遗忘的角落,很多颓败不堪,岌岌可危,在杂草灌木中挣扎挺立。然而它们却像一个个坐标,连缀出这片土地上的历史,是中华文明发展洪流中的点点滴滴。那些精美而破败的古代建筑,也许某一天就会彻底坍塌消失。然而,悲伤中一丝的欣喜,就是连达去了,使建筑在他的笔下顽强地矗立,带着一种悲壮的震撼,也许这是它们后的画像。
如果让这些坐标消失,就是一种文明的衰落。凝聚着当地的历史记忆的古建,如今仍是父老乡亲、少年儿童的聚集处,一代又一代地传递着祖先的事迹。人们还相信它们灵验,在祈愿中寻找自己的根脉,以善良和纯朴抵御着信仰的缺失,在闭塞甚至贫困中获得快乐,找到精神上的认同感和归属感。
深入乡村去追寻这些古建,绝不是轻松的旅行。家住东北的连达像一个流落异乡的游子,抛家舍业,背着几十斤的大包,常年跋涉在荒郊野外。这位“画破庙”的陌生人,自然会引起当地人的好奇,不被理解的白眼、闭门羹、冷嘲热讽,书中有轻描淡写。而老乡们的一碗面、一杯水、一句话的温暖却饱含深情的讲述。他的虔诚感动了人们,让人看到了一个不拿国家工资、更没考察经费而做大事的男子汉,看到了一位与那些濒临倒塌的古建一起倔强挺立的男子汉。画画引起围观,他边和老乡聊天边画,传播着知识和宣传保护文物的理念,采集当地的故事、历史传说,配在了画面的描述中,画面与文字结合,古建、村民、历史、现状、自然融为一体。
他的痴迷近乎于疯狂,这无法只用个人兴趣来解释。我也无数次穿梭于各地的山川,深知那番艰辛、孤独,没有超强的毅力和野外生存的能力便无法完成这部著作。那些美妙的画,不可能都是出自清风习习、塔铃叮咚中,更多的是在荒草丛生、蚊虫叮咬中完成。是什么力量让他千里追寻,难以割舍?我在书中看到了答案:“有多少这样破败的古建筑还挣扎在荒野里,有多少我还能来得及去见上一面,又有多少我已经永远地错过了,这就是无名的晚近古建筑所面临的普遍现状,让人心生悲怆之感。”
正是这种深沉的情怀,使他通过绘画释放着对传统文化的深爱,并以特殊的笔调,勾勒了那些梁架变形、屋顶塌漏、墙体倾斜的惨烈,画出了断壁残垣之美,展现了千年古庙的气韵和苍凉怀古之情,令人想到往昔的辉煌绚丽,看到现实的惨不忍睹,激起人们保护的欲望。
值得称道的是,连达的画介于专业制图和写生创作之间,既“神似”,又“形似”。看得出来,连达对古代建筑知识了解得很深,他追求的不仅是艺术,还有学术。带有艺术性的速写中,没忘记准确描绘那些斗栱、鸱吻、直棂窗、普柏枋、阑额、悬山、雀替……笔笔不误。还根据自己的知识对古建进行“轻松愉快的考证”,既不烦琐枯燥,又不失严谨,仔细读来,满有道理。
画速写当然要有取舍,连达的个性化选择,来自他与写生对象在精神上的交流。有些画,随便的几笔荒草枝叶,保留了现状的完整。有些画,将一些杂乱的痕迹滤掉,恢复原貌的清爽。这是他当时心情的交代,情感的宣泄,他不是用手在画,而是用心在画。
中国古代建筑往往是历史的叠加,包含着各个时期的信息。有些历经风吹雨打没动摇,却遭现代人毁坏的场景,在他的画作中刻意留了些痕迹,如墙面上的“抓革命,促生产”等标语,说明它曾经化身为一所工厂;“教育要为无产阶级政治服务”,表明曾被改用为学校;还有的被褥挂在建筑的廊柱间晾晒,表明已经沦为大杂院。旧貌与现代印迹共存,也是一种没有割裂的历史叙述。
即将倾圮的文物古迹,能留到如今是侥幸。然而如今肆意破坏、拆毁的事情屡屡发生。快速的经济发展与保护古代遗迹的矛盾中,不时出现拆与保对峙的擂台,对手却是同样的子孙后代。我以为,没有外部掠夺和战乱,在欣欣向荣的岁月中使古建消失,是更大的罪过。以精神文化的丢失换取更多的物质利益是过分的贪婪,而我们找不到自身根脉的时候,将沦为一无所有的精神乞丐。如果能从古建中体会到优雅、灵动、张扬、霸气、磅礴、华贵,不能不对自身传统文化产生崇敬和自信,爱惜它们就是爱我们的祖先,欣赏它们就是欣赏智慧和创造,保护它们就是保护自己的家园。
保护文物人人有责,批评、抱怨是一种态度,积极采取行动更为可贵。连达一个人的力量尽管微薄,却能唤起更多的人加入。令人欣慰的是,如今连达并不孤单,有一批户外徒步爱好者,执着地奔走在各地,以不同方式在保护中国文化遗产。据我所知,连达的朋友,也是我的朋友老J、火炬、尚方……几乎每个周末和假日,都到乡村进行地毯式的搜寻、调查一些即将消失的遗迹。我亲眼目睹在短短几年内,一些美丽的建筑、壁画已经坍塌、破坏、消亡,却留在了他们的照片、绘图、记录中。他们都是“业余”的,却以责任和信念在坚持,令未尽其责的专业人员感到羞愧,也让盗贼、不法开发商、单纯追求政绩的势利官员感到羞耻。
我不怀疑,他们的调查报告,将会陆续问世。我现在就敢断定,这本书和即将出版的一批书都具有极大的历史资料价值。
北京大学考古文博学院教授、博士生导师
齐东方
2017年3月
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